Hotel
Schirmer,
Königs
Platz, Cassel, Germany
Thursday,
25th May, 1891
Dear
Birdie,
At
last, dear sister, we
have arrived in Cassel. After four long, long days of travel, Mama
insists that I rest. But I am so impatient to see the town that I
cannot sit still. I am not allowed to venture out alone, but must
wait until Mama is ready. But I am ever so restless!
And
I am all aflutter to meet my new violin teacher and begin lessons. I
must not waste a minute if I am going to take the entrance
examination at the Conservatory in the autumn. I know you think I am
proud and a little foolish to dream of performing on a concert stage,
but being accepted into the Conservatory is very important to me.
When
she returns to Edinburgh, Mama will have much to tell you about our
journey. But I shall write about it as well as
I intend my letters to serve as an account of my exciting new life.
Please keep them for me, will you, dear Birdie?
I
need not write about coming down from Edinburgh to London. I am glad,
though, that we took the morning train, as the rest of the journey
was indeed rather arduous.
The
first interesting
part was the paddle steamer passage. We
went aboard at Queenborough at ten o'clock at night. I was
disappointed that we were to sail overnight, because by the time we
embarked it
was too late, in Mama's
opinion, to
explore the vessel as I should have liked to do. The Flushing Line
runs two crossings a day, but Mama chose the overnight passage so
that we should not have to spend the
next night on the train.
I
liked the Prinses
Marie.
She
is
much larger than the packets we have taken on our visits to Ireland
and I believe she
is
the largest paddle steamer in their fleet. We
shared a cabin with two large,good-natured Dutchwomen but we could
not communicate very well. They smiled a great deal, but they almost
filled up the small space, if it is not unkind to say so. Oh well, it
was only for the one night and I am determined to treat everything as
part of the adventure.
We
were both fearful of sea sickness, and felt ourselves lucky to have a
quiet crossing. Indeed both Mama and I slept well enough, despite the
narrow bunks and the discomfort of sharing a cabin with strangers.
To
wake up in the morning and find oneself in Holland, in Europe – now
that was thrilling! In Flushing, or Vlissingen perhaps I should say
now that I am in Europe, the Customs Officers were very nice and
polite. Please tell Papa for me.
On
the train, we very much appreciated the air cushions which Aunt Kate
gave us as a
going-away
present. Although they are not quite the latest thing – a passenger
in our compartment had one of the new Melon cushions – we found
that ours are rather more convenient. When emptied, ours
roll
up and fit neatly into a pocket.
My
new travelling costume served me well. I know I had complained about
it, but it was very suitable for travel. And my new petticoat – the
one of striped Oxford shirting – was much more sensible than a
white one. I was glad I had brought my tam, so that I could remove my
straw hat and rest my head against the back of the seat. What a good
thing I listened to Miss Mackenzie's advice. Do you remember her? The
very tall girl who was ahead of me at Mr. Waddell’s Music School?
She has been at the Conservatorium in Leipsic for a year now.
There
is much to learn about travelling. I was curious about the brightly
coloured circles some passengers had painted on the ends of their
trunks. But later I could see that it was good deal easier for those
people to recognize their belongings. I shall certainly do that when
next I travel by train.
I
shall stop here, Birdie, as finally Mama is ready to go out and I
most certainly do not wish to keep her waiting.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Friday,
26th May, 1891
Dear
Birdie,
Mama
said we must first go to meet Frau Brimmer where I am to lodge, so we
have paid a call and I believe Mama is satisfied that I shall be well
looked after. But I cannot yet meet Herr Kaletsch, the violin
teacher, until he returns from a short trip. I should not be so
impatient but passing the entrance exam means everything to me. If I
fail, this is all for naught!
But
before we start off sight-seeing, I want to tell you more about the
train journey. Our second-class compartment from Vlissingen was
comfortable, and as we had taken care to find a ladies' compartment
labelled, “Für Nicht Raucher”, we were not bothered by people
smoking. Happily I had the window seat facing forward and I was in
charge of opening and closing the window which I also liked.
In
Antwerp we had an hour's delay and as we were hungry we decided to
visit the refreshment room. This was not, dear Birdie, a pleasant
experience. It was very crowded and there was a long queue and
honestly these
people
do not seem to have the habit of queuing, so there was a good deal of
pushing and shoving. We had a struggle to find a place to sit and by
the time we had been served, it was nearly time to leave, so we ate
in great haste with no possibility of taking a sweet or coffee.
Someone had told us to avoid the pastries “as we would the plague”
– I do not know why – and the puddings looked unappetizing in any
case.
I
have quickly learned, dear sister, that travel is full of mystery.
One is forever wondering the why of things but one cannot get an
answer. Another time we could order a refreshment basket and enjoy
our food at leisure. That is what I shall do when I come home at
Christmas.
Indeed
one of our fellow passengers had such a basket and when she was
finished
eating, she
did the oddest thing. She
took
a
silver toothpick from her large handbag and proceeded to use it,
in public. I did not know where to look.
There
was another very long stop at the German
border
and once again we were obliged to fetch out all our luggage. Mama had
taken care to watch where our cases went and she cleverly found a
porter straightaway to see our trunks and boxes through Customs, so
that was all right.
I
was
worried about the tea. Miss Mackenzie had warned that one cannot get
good tea in Germany and said she always carries tea with her when she
leaves home, so Mama had packed several ounces in her valise. I had
not asked Miss Mackenzie how much was allowed and I was fearful that
it might be confiscated, or worse. Mama was not at all flustered and
said confidently that we had nothing to declare, and we
were sent on our way. I still do not know just how much tea is
permitted.
Here
is another odd thing. You know, Birdie, how we sit in complete
silence amongst strangers in a railway carriage at home? Well, on
this train, people
coming and going from our carriage would nod or bow to each other, to
complete strangers, when they entered or left the carriage. And they
spoke to each other, although it seemed obvious that they did not
know each other. Mama was rather perturbed by this but I am beginning
to think that it is a more natural way of behaviour, especially when
one is cooped
up with others for hours in a railway carriage.
But
my goodness, Birdie, how rude the guards were! At home we are used to
railway guards being helpful and respectful, but at the border one
guard practically bawled at us as we came hurrying along the platform
after we were finished with the Customs officials. Of course we could
not run! .........
and several pages later ...
Braustrasse
4, Leipzig
Sunday,
16th October, 1891
Dear
Mama and
Papa,
I
hope Birdie has shared her letter with you and that my last postcard
reached you. I shall not repeat all that I wrote about my pension. I
have learned that in Germany this city is spelled Leipzig, so I shall
use that spelling from now on.
The
date is fixed for my examination! It will be on the
tenth of November which is less than one month from now. I shall have
to do nothing but practise if I am to pass and even so, I may not
succeed. I do not know what I shall do if I fail.
My
tutor, Miss Taylor, is very plain spoken. She is a dedicated student
who says proudly that she never visits cafés or mixes with the
Anglo-American students. We shall meet twice a week for the next
month. Apparently it is the usual thing for senior pupils like Miss
Taylor to tutor younger ones. This is how she can gain some
experience of teaching since mostly everyone who graduates from the
Conservatorium goes on to teach at some time.
I
am working
hard on my audition pieces, and Miss Taylor has already made several
suggestions for small changes. Fräul.
Hohmann told
me that I must not be disappointed if Herr Sitt puts me off until the
start of Easter term which
is
when the new courses usually begin. And because I am not yet
seventeen, she says I should not be in a hurry. In any case, Herr
Sitt is very famous and of course only teaches the most senior
students. Mr. Waddell’s letter of introduction was flattering and I
hope that might help my case. I hope I do not disappoint.
I
assure you that Fräul.
Hohmann
is
very strict with us here at Braustrasse,
as I know you would wish it to be. You must not worry. The house is
comfortable enough and I feel cosy in my small chamber. I shall have
to be very tidy indeed if I am going to have room to work on my
drawing. My
window faces north and that is a good light for drawing, I believe.
Whilst
I practise, I confess I am often distracted looking down at the
street where there is a good deal of traffic with carts and carriages
rattling along all the time. In the evening, Fräul
Hohmann's large
sitting room is always welcoming and warm with a fire on chilly
nights in the big porcelain stove in the corner. I must say these
stoves are a brilliant invention and we should have them at home.
There is no smoke and no dirty ash and they simply radiate heat all
through the room.
There
are three other young ladies besides myself in our pension. Miss
Lily
Foster is
a friendly English girl in her second year of piano studies. Her home
is London
and I hope
she may become a
friend. Miss Annabelle Donaldson hails from Boston. She is over
twenty
and has been here three years and like Miss
Foster, she
is studying piano. Fräulein Frieda Hilz, who
studies voice, comes
from Hamburg and is living in our pension in order to practise her
English. Sometimes we three English speakers try to have a “German”
supper, but we rarely get through the meal without lapsing into
English.
I
hope you will not object, but I have decided that I shall try out the
different church services that are conducted
in
English. Miss Foster prefers the All Saints Church, but I am curious
to attend service at the American Church as well as the English
services at the Alte Thomas Schule. If I feel very adventurous, I may
go to the Union Evangelical Church as well.
I
have found a new tutor for German lessons thanks to my landlady's
help. She is accustomed to having English-speaking boarders, so it
should be no surprise that she could recommend someone. She sent me
to meet one gentleman who did not have time for me, but then he sent
me along to someone I think I shall like much better, a young man by
the name of Herr Joseph Schneider who is a student at the university.
I had my first lesson with
him last week and I believe I am going to make very good progress. He
takes an interesting approach to our lessons, escorting me on
pleasant walks around the city. He teaches me the names of places and
things and asks simple questions which I must answer in German. It is
a great deal nicer than conjugating verbs with old Herr G. ........
No comments:
Post a Comment