Aboard
the S.S.
Yorkshire
Sunday,
7th August, 1898
Dear
Lily,
We
have been at sea for several days now and I have decided to regard it
as a second honeymoon. Our week in the Lake District was lovely but
brief and I am happy to have this time with my dear Frank before we
reach Canada. I was perhaps more nervous than I admitted to myself,
about the new experiences of married life.
I
am anxious too about meeting Frank's family again. As we shall live
with them, I worry that they will not like me once they get to know
me. And if I am honest, I worry that perhaps I may not find them
entirely agreeable. But then I chastise myself; how can Frank's
family be anything but kind and generous? When I met them in London
two years ago, we were all being very proper. I hope you do not mind
if I write of this to you, Lily. We have been friends a long time now
and I cannot share these concerns with Mama nor with Frank.
Enough
of that. You asked me to write all about our voyage. Our little
state-room has comfy berths, a sofa, a writing table, a small
wardrobe and a compact wash-basin stand. To take a bath, though, a
proper bath, one makes an appointment with the bath-steward – who
expects a tip! – and at the proper time, one is taken to the
bath-room where there is a tub of warmed saltwater and a shower
arrangement with which one rinses off with fresh water. All very
easily managed.
The
first days were calm, if foggy, but we knew that was unlikely to last
the entire voyage. The rolling motion of the vessel takes some
getting used to, getting one’s sea legs, they call it, but it is
not unpleasant, and I can walk on deck now without holding on to the
railing. But looking out at the vast expanse of the ocean – well, I
shall be glad to see land again.
Then
the weather changed and we endured two days of fierce wind and rain
pelting down and enormous waves crashing over the bow. The ship was
pitching a great deal more than I had ever imagined. One was quite
thrown about trying to move around. And oh, I did feel queasy. I
spent many hours in my berth and could not go to dinner the first
night of the storm. Dear Frank brought me tea with lemon and biscuits
which was all I could take.
Frank
is a much better sailor than I am; he handled the storm quite well
for the most part but even he admitted his appetite was off. It must
be perfectly frightful to be crammed into steerage where you would
feel the rolling and pitching in the worst way.
Then
all of a sudden, it was over, and that night we stood on deck, close
together, watching the sun sink slowly into the ocean. We agreed it
was the most beautiful sunset we had ever seen. I am sure that every
person who sails across this great ocean speaks of feeling small and
insignificant. With the huge sky full of stars and nothing but water
in every direction, it was a humbling experience.
We
have been getting on famously with most of our fellow passengers,
especially the Misses Clarke and James, two young Canadians who have
been travelling together this summer. However, there is a certain
Mrs. K., a minister’s wife no less, who is not shy about expressing
her opinions, which are usually negative, about everything. I feel
sorry for people for whom life must be so constantly disappointing.
The tea is not hot enough, or it is too hot. The beef is overcooked,
or there is too much fat, or it is too lean. She is hard pressed to
restrain her three energetic young children who thoroughly enjoyed
the storm and were having a grand time sliding down the slippery
decks until an officer put a stop to their game.
Now
that we have fair weather, we have resumed our daily game of deck
quoits before luncheon. It is ever so much fun, and it makes me happy
that Frank and I make a good team.
Our
saloon-class compatriots quickly discovered what a talent they had
amongst them, and dear Frank is much in demand after dinner to play
at the piano in the main salon. He is always so obliging; it is very
sweet of him. We even ventured to play a few duets together. Now we
are attempting, with the others, to get up a small concert. We plan
to invite the second cabin passengers so as to have a decent
audience. Almost everyone in saloon class came forward to do
something, to sing, or recite or get up a little sketch. It is an
expected thing, this little show, so it should be very jolly.
Oh
Lily, I do wish we were going to our own home, although I completely
understand how sensible it is to stay with Frank's parents for a
while. After all, it was largely on Frank's account that Mr. Welsman
bought the house on Sherbourne Street. One good thing is that there
will be company in the house whilst Frank is out all day teaching.
Whilst
I am a little apprehensive about living with my in-laws, I am truly
excited about this new adventure. It was not until after you had left
Leipzig, Lily, that I had the chance to visit more of Germany with
lovely trips to Berlin and Dresden. I did enjoy them. And you and I
had some fine times together in Leipzig too, exploring the old city
and getting lost that day in the Rosental Park. I am looking forward
to exploring the city of Toronto and to living in a new country. I
hope to find a letter from you, my friend, full of good news perhaps,
when we arrive in Toronto.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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